Thursday, February 26, 2015

A 1940's Stye Blouse: Simplicity 1692 Pattern Review

My first garment for the Vintage Pledge is done. I decided to start with something simple. I had picked up this reproduction pattern recently, during on of those great pattern sales, at JoAnn Fabrics. It is Simplicity 1692. The pattern is for a 1940's style blouse with varying sleeve and neck options. I choose to make version D which features a scoop neckline and dolman style sleeves. It has buttons at the shoulders, an invisible zip and the pattern called for trim to go around the sleeves and neckline. I opted not to do any trim detail as that isn't really my style. I did use vintage buttons at the shoulders and instead of trim I did top stitching.

This pattern is fairly simple be careful when cutting it out. I noticed a misprint on my pattern pieces on one of the facing pieces it was marked with the wrong sizes although the piece was the correct size it was not marked with the correct sizes of that pattern and the front facing piece was marked as being for the back.
I did make a couple of changes. I opted to self face my facing fabric instead of using an iron on interfacing. I really wanted my fabric is keep the same feel and drape. Iron on interfacing tend to be disappointing or at least my experience with them has been less than wonderful for garment sewing. The other change I made was I added a rounded hem to the front and dipped the hemline down a couple of inches. I am bustier than what the pattern company's draft for and so when I did a muslin of this blouse I found the front hemline was creeping up. This isn't really an issue if you tuck shirts in but I don't like tucking my shirts in. Changing the hemline meant moving the tucks for the blouse. I sewed the back ones in at their pattern placement. The front ones I wanted until just before doing to bottom hem. I wanted to make sure that they were placed correctly before sewing.I did mark them with tailors tacks.
I made my shirt out of a lovely plum colored fabric of unknown fiber content. I got the fabric from my mom and she couldn't even remember. Anyway this fabric has a lovely feel but tends to unravel quite easily. That meant I'd have to do some work on seam finishes. Some of my seams are french seams and the side with the zipper I opted to go with a bound seam using bias binding. I sort of wish I had just cut my own bias binding and done a hong kong finish instead of using commercially made double fold bias tape. Oh well I will know this for a future project. The importance of these seam finishes is so I can laundered the shirt without it falling to bits.
I also want to say that this was the very first time I have ever put in an invisible zip. I'm feeling rather proud of myself for getting it in. Let me just say that an invisible zip foot is a handy thing and worth every penny to get one. 

Big question would I make this again and the answer is yes. I think next time I will make if out of a cotton fabric that can have a quicker seam finish. I really like how the blouse fits and drapes.

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